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February 17th 2014 / Monaco, Monaco / Ilia Sybil



While the departure of Marc Jacobs was something known for some time already, it was properly ''celebrated'' in his last, as-dark-as-it-gets collection (both showcasing his potential and waving goodbye in a morbid yet luxurious atmosphere). After months of speculation, former Balenciaga man, Nicolas Ghesquière was appointed creative director of women's design in the House Of Louis Vuitton.


The main idea behind Ghesquière's hiring at Louis Vuitton is to expand the market of accessories with his savvy eye for edgy and bold creativity. The Louis Vuitton executives know only too well that opening new stores in new market areas such as Asia isn't enough as they are dealing with an audience that is being bombarded with imagery and, let's face it, gets easily bored as fashions fade quicker than we believe.


The other idea is more rooted to the actual Louis Vuitton tradition and design DNA: a return to traditional values where the LV logo actually meant something (aka. a lot!) for the wearer, indicating social status and fashion understanding. An orchestrated re-defining of the LV logo is on the run with Ghesquière: being less bold but slightly more feminine, given his previous years in one of the largest Haute Couture Houses. There are two paths for Nicolas Ghesquière to follow, once in Louis Vuitton. He can renovate the House's status by looking back at the sense of ''exclusivity'' and uniqueness that LV was once proud of. This could very much work in new markets, as people always are willing to pay an extra amount of money just to feel ''privileged''. The other path is to experiment even further than Jacobs ever did, by using the actual archives and history, thus understanding the DNA of the House of Louis Vuitton. The latter appears the riskier but how great would it be to witness such a sartorial experiment!


Ghesquiere vs Jacobs