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July 31st, 2013 / San Jose, Costa Rica / Marco Barquero Suarez
It is irreversible. I think the biggest sign of the crisis of the XXI male identity
came clear to me when Carine Roitfeld did an editorial for Vogue Hommes International
about fur and she had the biggest struggle trying to find male models with pubic
Some people may call it out with the (in)famous trend of the metrosexuals (yuck! that word!). But we cannot deny it has been around for a while: morphing and evolving and moving from androgyny to reclaiming the facial hair as the manifesto of male identity.
It goes even further back, all the way to the XIXth century, when dandyism was all the rage and gentlemen paid cult to the shrine of the best physical version of themselves (opposite metros, who would only care about appearance borrowing from imagery of gay culture).
In most recent times, the rise of hipsterism, arrived with guys who have thirst of
knowledge and dress with a carefully studied unkemptness, but still, do not look
Androgyny has always played its part since the classical Grecian and Roman times, and in my humble opinion, was showcased to mainstream culture by Belgian designers (with some help of Jean Paul Gaultier).
Who can forget in the days of Ford's Gucci, when he paraded male models wearing moustaches?
Or how right now, on mainstream culture, how the hirsute, tattooed man has transpired all the way to the internet phenomena called "Suicide boys"?
I guess the internet, which found some resilience from the fashion world on its beginnings, is the one to blame for such frenzy. Now we all (or most of us) look like versions of something else thanks to access to the largest online library of not only fashion history, but street style, collections and trends from all over the world.
Pairing it with more recent events, like Dolce and Gabbana's choice of using real Sicilians (opposite real models) for their shows, as well as McQueen showing an SS 14 show with lots of lace, silk and a pastel colors only shows how the 80's ideal of the muscular, manly man or the 70's Marlboro man are anachronisms built in 2013.
Which brings us to the biggest question: What comes next? With Marc Jacobs borrowing more and more clothes from the womenswear collections and JW Anderson being deemed the golden "it" boy of designers, is the man ready for a change so as to reverse the flow of natural things? Guys borrowing clothes from the ladies’ wardrobe opposite as history has proven (cravats, pants and suits?).
We can only imagine, but nonetheless, I will be the first to admit, I am as giddy to see which is the direction these ideals of manhood will take in the upcoming years.
Where have all the cowboys gone?